Monday, 20 January 2014

Returning Home: South Africa Part 2: Flora and Fauna


Apart  from friends and family, the scenery and animals are what I miss most about South Africa. Which probably explains why after almost 24 hours of travelling and only 5 hours sleep when we arrived in SA, I was still able to wake up at 5am to hear the dawn chorus over the rushing water of the river next to our temporary accommodation. 

I laughed to hear the crying of the Hadeda Ibis and a shiver ran down my spine when the piet-my-vrous started their insistent long distance conversations. I had forgotten about the Christmas Beetles with their high-pitched whistling squeak that reminds me of walking in forests in summer. 

Of course not all the animals were wild. For the duration of our visit we house-sat for some of my sister's friends. They had two dogs; a labrador and a jack russell. 


If you were wondering what a Hadeda Ibis was then wonder no more. They have to be the strangest and funniest birds I have ever seen. Every time they take off from the roof of a house (usually at sunrise) their cry sounds like a couple of starving babies. They are the butt of a few jokes, one of which is that they're afraid of heights. I had given myself a couple of photographic challenges for this trip and the second most important was to get a photo of a hadeda that didn't make me laugh or that made the hadeda look at least a little respectable. I don't think this photo ticks that box.
When we moved from Cape Town to Kwa-Zulu Natal, I was only about 4 years old. And none of us had heard of Hadedas. In fact I couldn't get their name right to start with - I used to call them Dadehas.


Anyone ever wonder what happened to Pinocchio? He's having a lovely time bird watching in this tree.


The number 1 photographic challenge I set myself was to get a photo of a Piet-My-Vrou. Well I failed as I knew I would. These red-chested cuckoos are shy and elusive birds, always heard and hardly ever seen, except perhaps as a speck in a distant blue-gum tree. They have become more numerous over the 7 years I've been away and every morning I woke up to the call of the locals. One even teased me. I knew which tree it was in, I stood right under the tree and still couldn't see the silly bird. I could hear him loud and clear "piet-my-vrou, piet-my-vrou" but not a feather could I see. How frustrating. One day I will get a photo of him.


A bird I had forgotten about was the Fork-Tailed Drongo. A completely black bird with, yup you guessed it, a forked tail.


I can't resist a few good flower photos, especially when they include water drops from the recent unseasonal rainy days.




Ah, probably the most numerous species of bird in SA (don't quote me on that), the weaver. There are many types of weavers and all of them build very cool nests that give them their name. They take reeds from a riverbank, or bits of palm trees, whatever they can, and weave together their little cave-like nests for their mates. If the female doesn't like the nest, it gets thrown to the ground to be picked up by curious school children learning about them at school. The last house we stayed in before moving to England had a willow tree at the bottom of the garden. This poor willow never really had a chance to hide its trunk and every reason to weep as the weavers stripped its whip-like branches for their nests.







This little pied wagtail is another cute bird I had forgotten about. He flitted around the river, jumping from rock to rock searching for insects and tadpoles to catch. Once or twice he looked directly at me, knowing I was there but still he carried on, content that I wouldn't get any closer.


He caught what looks like a damsel fly.



It can get very wet, jumping from one rock to another. Sometimes all you need is a little shake to get those cold water drops off your back.


This gap between rocks was a bit too big to just jump over.


Perfectly built for the riverside. He's beautifully camouflaged here.


When we visited the Nelson Mandela Monument outside Howick near the site of his capture, many people had already put down flowers and cards. This bird of paradise with a lily and some other flowers caught my attention and I couldn't help photographing them.


Another special bird on my list of favourite South African birds has to be the pin-tailed whydah. These little birds have long tail feathers which weigh them down a bit in flight, giving the whydah a duck and dive way of flying that is quite comical and beautiful.


These red bishops along with the pintail were grazing behind Piggly Wiggly Farm Stall.


Indian Mynahs are a common enough sight.


This LBJ (little brown job) posed nicely for me while we were waiting for our lunch at a restaurant on the Midlands Meander.


A random beetle landed on my brother's hair, couldn't resist.


It wasn't the season for proteas to flower but this protea bush had at least one flower for me to photograph. The protea is of course South Africa's national flower.


Remember that Hadeda photo I mentioned I wanted earlier? This isn't it. But then again, Hadeda's are comical creatures, so perhaps this is the photo I wanted... "do you feel clucky?"


A Fiscal Shrike or (more commonly) butcher bird. These birds are not nice characters. I remember when we were looking after a little bulbul chick called Wilbur we had to keep the butcher birds away from him while his parents flew down and fed him. So butcher birds will kill other birds, as their name suggests.


Where there's water, you'll find a dragonfly darting backwards and forwards. I watched this one for quite a time before taking the photo. It kept pacing the same route up and down the lawn next to the swimming pool. I was able to follow it on the camera and capture this cool photo.


I missed the bee in this shot by a few seconds but I still like the photo.


Random unopened flower.


A South African Honey Bee with a mean sting.


You want to know the reason I can't tell the different between a British bee and British wasp? Well this is what a South African Wasp looks like. Worse than bees, they live after they sting you. They're also pretty aggressive if you go near their nests. And for some reason these guys like building their nests in the corners of verandahs.


A cute gecko, almost impossible to catch by hand but I have managed it a few times.


A hadeda with a bad hair day?! Also from a distance and on gloomy days hadedas look like boring brown/grey birds, in the sun their feathers shimmer with every colour. Their discarded feathers can be very pretty on a hanging ornament.


A weaver bird in the reads near a man-made dam.


These flowers are usually found in very dry climates, I think. Their tiny petals feel like plastic or paper and they rustle like plastic. We used to call them Everlasting Flowers because they looked like dried flowers.


Some more proteas in a friend's garden.





I had a few birds of prey on my photography challenge list. The Yellow-Billed Kite was not on the list because I had forgotten about him. But here he is, showing off for my camera.



House Martins and Swallows are almost impossible to capture on camera because they're so swift. But this guy I just managed to capture.


The Guinea Fowl. Enough said.


A beautiful Red Bishop.


After a quick bit of research, I have found out that this neat grasshopper is called a Koppie Foam Grasshopper. Koppie is Afrikaans for small head (in this case) and these guys secrete a poisonous foam on their heads when they feel threatened. They are poisonous because of the plants they consume, milkweed being one of those. They're still pretty amazing and this guy didn't feel threatened by me when I was taking pretty close up photos of him.



This is a Bulbul. They have a small sound probably a little similar to the Blue Tit. I have heard them trying to imitate the Piet-My-Vrou in some instances but they are not loud enough to cast their call over the valleys like the Piet-My-Vrou can.


This little guy lives in his nest above the front door of my sister's sister-in-law's house in Hilton, KZN. It's a Lesser Striped Swallow. I felt bad photographing him because I had to use the flash, but he seemed okay with it and flew away quite happily when I was done.



One of the larger birds of prey in South Africa, the Gymnogene or African Harrier Hawk. They are large grey birds. It was always special to see one in Howick and this one was spotted in Pietmaritzburg chased by some swallows.


I just loved the lighting.


Random plant growing on a branch.


One of the more common birds of prey in SA is the Long Crested Eagle. As their name suggests they have long crests which can be quite comical in rainy or windy weather. I remember passing one sitting on a pole with its crest folding over its face and sticking to it's beak after a bad rain storm. Poor thing looked very bedraggled and sorry for itself but we couldn't help laughing. Their long slow whistle call is easily recognised in valleys and near small dams. In flight they are recognised by the white tipped wings (similar to the Common Buzzard in England).


An animal that is equally cute, dangerous and a pest is the Vervet Monkey. These guys used to inhabit the blue-gum trees at the bottom of our garden and at the bottom of the road of our first house in Howick. Sadly because the blue-gums are alien to SA, the government started to get rid of them, thus leaving the monkeys with no place to go. They of course then search for food in local properties and houses. They are really cute though and when we were visiting some old friends (their story to feature in the next blog post) the monkeys turned up to give us a bit of a show. They had really young ones with them but sadly I couldn't photograph those.

This little guy is still quite young. Even though I was taking the photos through an open window, they knew I was there and tried to stay out of sight of my lens.


This one had yet to realise that the branch it was hiding behind wasn't big enough!


The young vervet was a bit more curious and adventurous than the others.



Posing for the camera!



Uncle Nigel decided to tempt the monkeys by putting a banana in the bird feeder. This is something that residents are always asked not to do as it encourages the monkeys... but it's brilliant for a bit of photography!



Swinging from the trees!




Caught in the act.


There were a few other birds I saw or heard but couldn't get photos of. These included the Burchell's Coucal (also known as the rain bird). Not the most pretty birds but surely one of best songs to hear while sitting outside in the morning. Sometimes described as the sound of water bubbling, these birds are similiar to the Piet-My-Vrou in that they are rarely seen but easily heard.
I've always given another bird the name of Rain Bird. It's a bird I don't think I've ever seen because I don't know it's true name. It has one long drawn out whistle that spreads across a valley before rain. It's a beautiful sound to hear. I wish I could find out what it is.



Monday, 13 January 2014

Returning Home: South Africa Part 1: The Landscape

South Africa of course has some spectacular landscapes to show off but when we landed at King Shaka International Airport in Durban it was hidden behind fog and rain. I was desperate to see the rolling hills of the Midlands again but sadly the drive home gave me only glimpses of green through the mist before the sun set somewhere over the eastern coastline and darkness descended without fanfare. A muted return home after 7 years away and 5 years, 9 months since I had last been on South African soil.

Thankfully after a rainy first few days the skies cleared and the Natal Midlands showed us her best summer colours: clear blue skies, rich green hills and dark grey storm clouds later in the afternoons. This selection of photos can't show you all the beauty of the Natal Midlands because frankly, a camera can never capture it. What you see is only part of the beauty. The sounds, smells and feelings that go along with it make Kwa-Zulu Natal, South Africa and Africa a really special place to live, to grow up in and to return to.

On the first morning I woke up at 5:30am. Which is typical me. I knew it would happen. Even after only an hour's sleep in 24 hours of travelling. The sun was up, the birds were singing (more about them in my next blog post!) and the rain had stopped, at least for the dawn chorus. The rain drops on the thatch roof of our cottage glinted in the morning light and I couldn't resist taking a photo of it.


When the sun did finally show itself for a whole morning (a day later, I think), we decided to go for a drive along the Midlands Meander. The sky was so vast and we almost had a clear view to Underberg. I couldn't get enough of how big it all felt, how much space was out there.

Our first stop had to be the Nelson Mandela Monument that has gone up outside of Howick (my home town). It's situated near where he was captured and offers a beautiful view to the south. Previously there just used to be a plaque to commemorate where he was captured.


The monument itself (by artist Marco Cianfanelli) is made up of 50 specially shaped steel poles that when viewed from the right angle give you a flat picture of Nelson Mandela's face. I will talk more about this in another blog post.




Piggly Wiggly is a popular spot on the Meander with its variety of shops, food and craft stalls overlooking this scene on one side and my favourite old fishing spot on the other. The clouds in the distance brought a typical Natal Summer Storm which sadly didn't live up to its warning rumbles of thunder in the distance. But it was still good to stand in a field feeling the cool storm wind and smell the rain in the air and hear the thunder spreading across the sky towards us.





Midmar Dam is a favourite leisure spot for those living in the Midlands. There are places to fish, ski, swim and of course Braai (BBQ for those of you non-South Africans reading this!). It is also home to the Midmar Mile, the world's largest open water swim.


But our time braaing on the banks of Midmar was cut short by yet another Summer Storm. This one raged on in the distance for quite some time, waiting for people to pack up their food, bring in the boats and race for their cars before it burst. Sadly we left before it really did burst overhead, I would have loved to stay and watch it.



The veil of rain and lightning in the distance warned us of the intensity of the storm.


Rain hit the water as more clouds rolled closer to the hill.


Howick has a number of new developments on the hills surrounding the village. This one offered a lovely view of some of the Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve on the left.



The border of the Reserve.


One of Howick's tourist destinations is the Howick Falls or KwaNogqaza (The Place of the Tall One). The water thunders down 111m of cliff face into the Umgeni River below and runs through the Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve. There is a Gorge Walk down to the pool which I still have yet to walk. One day.


Local legend says there is a monster in the pool. It's called the Inkanyamba, a Loch Ness-type monster to some. No one knows how deep the pool really is though. A year or so before we arrived in Natal for the first time all those years ago, a flood carried a bus down the falls; it wasn't ever recovered.




Hilton is home to mists and fogs that are so dense, that driving can be scary and dangerous at times when all you can see ahead of you is the dim outline of another car's lights. But when the mist clears it offers beautiful views over the village and beyond and on a clear day (especially in winter) from some parts of Hilton you can see the Drakensberg Mountains.









World's View is aptly named. It offers a view over the city of Pietermaritzburg and beyond. These last photos were taken from my sister's house which is a little way away from World's View's viewing platform.


"But as the carriage rolled down the lowering hills to the dish-shaped harbour, Charis glimpsed the Isle of Apples floating serenely above its orchards across the bay. She sighed, feeling both pleasure and a little disappointment in the familiar sight. Nothing has changed, she thought, it is all exactly as it was the day I left.
This thought, comforting in its way, also produced a flat pang of disappointment. Something ought to have changed; I have been away seven years! she thought, and realised that she had vaguely expected her home to have changed as much as she had in that time..."
- Taliesin by Stephen Lawhead.
I read this passage when I was in South Africa and I realised that was how I had felt. It was strange being home and realising that everything looked the same. Well almost the same. From a distance the countryside looked exactly as I remembered it. But once I took a closer look I did see changes, from the Mandela Monument to the new developments on the hills overlooking Howick. It had changed. If I had only gone back home to see the countryside, to see the beauty Africa has to offer, then I would have been disappointed and felt cheated. But thankfully, that was not the reason I returned. To see the countryside again and hear the thunder rumbling across the sky and smell the refreshing rain was something I had missed and it was good to experience it all again.

There is a quote that does the rounds on the internet quite a bit these days. It says something along the lines of "We can leave Africa, but Africa will never leave us." Anyone who ever visits Africa takes a part of it in their hearts when they leave. More so for those who were born in Africa, who were brought up there. I spent the first 18 years of my life in South Africa and it's a hard thing to say but I know now it's not home any more. One reason I needed to go back was to confirm this, to seek closure on that part of my life.

Of course I will return again and again. But for now, I'm happy to be back in England. I'm happy to have spent 2 weeks back home in South Africa. But England is home.



Coming up:
Part 2: Flora and Fauna
Part 3: The People